Emollients in dermatological creams: Early evaluation for tailoring formulation and therapeutic performance.

The targeted choice of the emollient of a cream determines its physicochemical properties and clinical effectiveness. This work researched the effects of emollient properties on the final characteristics and potential performance of oil-in-water dermatological creams. Seven emollients with different chemical characteristics and structures (alkane, triglyceride, ether, silicone, vegetable oils, and mineral oil) were tested in a model formulation. Early stability, pH, droplet size distribution, rheology, tackiness, adhesivity, spreadability, tribology, and release profile of a lipophilic substance model (in Franz cells, through a synthetic membrane, for six hours) were assessed. The creams had acid epicutaneous pH and a "shear-thinning" "solid-like" viscoelastic behavior. Among the seven emollients' properties, polarity, density, and viscosity were the most influential. Droplet parameters were the most impacted, pH and release were moderately affected, and the textural properties were lowly to moderately impacted. The emollient substitution in the model formulation affected the experimental parameters differently, allowing formulation optimization and tailoring its potential therapeutic performance regarding drug release, coadjutant effects, and dwell time on the skin. By looking at the creams' characteristics, it was possible to select the best-suited emollients for releasing a lipophilic drug, applying on painful skin, and formulation in wash-off products or leave-on protective barrier creams.

Development of an in vitro Functional Assay to Evaluate the Occlusive Properties of Moisturizers on Dry Skin.

INTRODUCTION: Dry skin is a hallmark of impaired skin barrier function. Moisturizers are a mainstay of treatment to help the skin retain moisture, and there is a high consumer demand for effective products. However, the development and optimization of new formulations are hampered due to lack of reliable efficacy measures using in vitro models. METHODS: In this study, a microscopy-based barrier functional assay was developed using an in vitro skin model of chemically induced barrier damage to evaluate the occlusive activity of moisturizers. RESULTS: The assay was validated by demonstrating the different effects on barrier function between humectant (glycerol) and occlusive (petrolatum). Significant changes in barrier function were observed upon tissue disruption, which was ameliorated by commercial moisturizing products. CONCLUSION: This newly developed experimental method may be helpful to develop new and improved occlusive moisturizers for the treatment of dry skin conditions.

Bio-based alternatives to volatile silicones: Relationships between chemical structure, physicochemical properties and functional performances.

Emollient oils are ubiquitous ingredients of personal care products, especially skin care and hair care formulations. They offer excellent spreading properties and give end-use products a soft, pleasant and non-sticky after-feel. Emollients belong to various petro- or bio-based chemical families among which silicone oils, hydrocarbons and esters are the most prominent. Silicones have exceptional physicochemical and sensory properties but their high chemical stability results in very low biodegradability and a high bioaccumulation potential. Nowadays, consumers are increasingly responsive to environmental issues and demand more environmentally friendly products. This awareness strongly encourages cosmetics industries to develop bio-based alternatives to silicone oils. Finding effective silicon-free emollients requires understanding the molecular origin of emollience. This review details the relationships between the molecular structures of emollients and their physicochemical properties as well as the resulting functional performances in order to facilitate the design of alternative oils with suitable physicochemical and sensory properties. The molecular profile of an ideal emollient in terms of chemical function (alkane, ether, ester, carbonate, alcohol), optimal number of carbons and branching is established to obtain an odourless oil with good spreading on the skin. Since none of the carbon-based emollients alone can imitate the non-sticky and dry feel of silicone oils, it is judicious to blend alkanes and esters to significantly improve both the sensory properties and the solubilizing properties of the synergistic mixture towards polar ingredients (sun filters, antioxidants, fragrances). Finally, it is shown how modelling tools (QSPR, COSMO-RS and neural networks) can predict in silico the key properties of hundreds of virtual candidate molecules in order to synthesize only the most promising whose predicted properties are close to the specifications.

ARTICLE: Models to Study Skin Lipids in Relation to the Barrier Function: A Modern Update on Models and Methodologies Evaluating Skin Barrier Function.

The skin barrier is a multifaceted microenvironment, comprised not only of structural and molecular components that maintain its integrity, but also a lipid matrix comprising an equimolar ratio of cholesterol, free fatty acids, and ceramides. Lipid abnormalities induced by environmental or pathological stimuli are often associated with impaired skin barrier function and integrity. Incorporation of skin lipids in skincare formulations to help fortify barrier function has become widespread. While there are resources available to study the barrier, a comprehensive evaluation of skin models, from in situ to in vivo, that focus on alterations of the lipid content, seems to be lacking. This article reviews current methods to evaluate the skin lipid barrier and touches upon the significance of using such models within the cosmetic field to study formulations that incorporate barrier lipids. J Drugs Dermatol. 20(4 Suppl):s10-16. doi:10.36849/JDD.S589B.

ARTICLE: Efficacy of Ceramide-Containing Formulations on UV-Induced Skin Surface Barrier Alterations.

The human skin, particularly the stratum corneum, serves as a protective barrier against exogenous factors, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and pathogen invasions. The impact of UVR on skin cancer and photoaging has been extensively studied. However, the direct impact of UVR on skin barrier integrity under clinical settings remains poorly explored. Due to their benefits in reducing inflammation and promoting skin barrier repair, ceramide-containing formulations can provide added photoprotection benefits. In this study, the efficacy of a ceramide-containing sunscreen and moisturizer were evaluated in preventing UV-induced skin surface barrier changes. Expert grading, instrumental, and tape-stripping assessments demonstrated that UVR induced erythema and hyperpigmentation and caused changes in skin cells surface morphological organization and maturation. Treatment with a ceramide-containing sunscreen and moisturizing cream routine reduced erythema and hyperpigmentation, improved skin hydration, and maintained normal superficial skin cells morphology and turnover after UVR. Our results indicate that barrier-enforcing lipids formulations can provide additional benefits in patient’s daily routine by strengthening the barrier and improving skin health overall against chronic sun exposure. J Drugs Dermatol. 20(4 Suppl):s29-35. doi:10.36849/JDD.S589E.

A Novel Multi-Action Emollient Plus Cream Improves Skin Barrier Function in Patients with Atopic Dermatitis: In vitro and Clinical Evidence.

BACKGROUND: Emollients capable of restoring the skin barrier function would extend their role beyond basic maintenance therapy in atopic dermatitis (AD). OBJECTIVES: Investigate the effect of a novel emollient plus cream (EC; Dermoflan®) on the skin barrier in vitro and in patients with mild-to-moderate AD. METHODS: The effect of EC on the skin barrier recovery was evaluated using a tape-stripping (TS) model. After TS, organ cultures were treated with EC (undiluted or diluted 1:1 with water) and analyzed at 18-120 h using hematoxylin and eosin, Oil Red O, immunohistochemical, and immunofluorescent techniques. In a double-blind, randomized study, EC or placebo was applied once daily for 2 months to antecubital folds of the upper and lower limbs of patients with mild-to-moderate AD in clinical remission. Epidermal thickness, vascularization, and epidermal hydration were assessed by optical coherence tomography and corneometry, respectively, at baseline, and 1 and 2 months following treatment initiation. RESULTS: Following TS, EC treatment significantly increased epidermal thickness and lipid content versus diluent in the skin organ culture, as well as claudin-1, involucrin, and caspase-14 expression, suggesting skin barrier repair. EC treatment also decreased keratin-16 expression and increased levels of Toll-like receptors 1 and 2 versus diluent, suggesting involvement in regulating the epidermal immune response. In 20 patients randomized 1:1 to EC or placebo, EC treatment at the elbow fold/popliteal fossa significantly decreased epidermal thickness after 2 months, and the number of blood vessels at the elbow fold after 1 and 2 months, versus placebo. EC significantly improved the skin hydration after 2 months versus baseline. CONCLUSIONS: This novel multi-action EC may help to restore epidermal homeostasis and improve the skin of patients with AD. Results indicate that this novel multi-action EC could be a valid adjuvant therapy in patients with AD. Key Message: Novel multi-action emollient cream helps to restore epidermal homeostasis and improves the skin affected by AD.

Measurements meet perceptions: rheology-texture-sensory relations when using green, bio-derived emollients in cosmetic emulsions.

OBJECTIVE: Product aesthetics and sensory performance can strongly influence a cosmetic product's acceptance by consumers. However, classic sensory analysis is time-consuming, expensive and does not provide information on the target group's preference. In the previous phase of this project, we had untrained consumers evaluate six cosmetic emulsions based on their aesthetics using a check-all-that-apply (CATA) survey. In this project, our goals were to quantitatively characterize the rheology and textural properties of the six cosmetic emulsions containing green, bio-derived emollients and identify statistical relationships between the consumers' description of products and the instrumental measurements. METHODS: Six emulsions were prepared-three with olive oil and three with heptyl undecylenate as an emollient. Four sensory-like attributes, namely firmness, work of shear, stickiness and adhesiveness, were tested using a texture analyser. Rheological characterization included continuous flow testing and oscillatory measurements. Droplet size and stability were also evaluated. Statistical relationships were quantified between measurements in this study and sensory survey results published previously. RESULTS: The textural and rheological results indicated that the emulsions were different-as designed. The texture and rheology measurements had analogous grouping outcomes to the consumers' discrimination. Emulsions 1 and 2 were the firmest, hardest to spread, stickiest and had the highest viscosity, while Emulsions 5 and 6 were the least firm, easiest to spread, less sticky than Emulsions 1 and 2, and had the lowest viscosity. Emulsions 3 and 4 fell in between the other two groups. Using olive oil instead of heptyl undecylenate as an emollient increased firmness, spreading, stickiness, viscosity and droplet size of the emulsions in every case-when comparing emulsions within each pair. All six emulsions had a shear-thinning behaviour. Viscosity and firmness directly correlated for the emulsions. Emulsions were visually stable at room temperature over the course of 6 months and viscosity remained relatively constant over this period also. CONCLUSION: Certain sensory attributes can be reliably predicted with instrumental measurements. Identifying and quantifying sensory-texture-rheology relationships can contribute to achieving appropriate product characteristics tailored to suit market needs.

Isosorbide Di-(Linoleate/Oleate) Stimulates Prodifferentiation Gene Expression to Restore the Epidermal Barrier and Improve Skin Hydration.

The breakdown of the epidermal barrier and consequent loss of skin hydration is a feature of skin aging and eczematous dermatitis. Few treatments, however, resolve these underlying processes to provide full symptomatic relief. In this study, we evaluated isosorbide di-(linoleate/oleate) (IDL), which was generated by esterifying isosorbide with sunflower fatty acids. Topical effects of IDL in skin were compared with those of ethyl linoleate/oleate, which has previously been shown to improve skin barrier function. Both IDL and ethyl linoleate/oleate downregulated inflammatory gene expression, but IDL more effectively upregulated the expression of genes associated with keratinocyte differentiation (e.g., KRT1, GRHL2, SPRR4). Consistent with this, IDL increased the abundance of epidermal barrier proteins (FLG and involucrin) and prevented cytokine-mediated stratum corneum degradation. IDL also downregulated the expression of unhealthy skin signature genes linked to the loss of epidermal homeostasis and uniquely repressed an IFN-inducible coexpression module activated in multiple skin diseases, including psoriasis. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial enrolling females with dry skin, 2% IDL lotion applied over 2 weeks significantly improved skin hydration and decreased transepidermal water loss (NCT04253704). These results demonstrate mechanisms by which IDL improves skin hydration and epidermal barrier function, supporting IDL as an effective intervention for the treatment of xerotic pruritic skin.

Optimization, kinetic, and scaling-up of solvent-free lipase-catalyzed synthesis of ethylene glycol oleate emollient ester.

The use of enzymatic catalysts is an alternative to chemical catalysts as they can help to obtain products with less environmental impact, considered sustainable within the concept of green chemistry. The optimization, kinetic, lipase reuse, and scale-up of enzymatic production of ethylene glycol oleate in the batch mode were carried out using the NS 88011 lipase in a solvent-free system. For the optimization step, a 23 Central Composite Design was used and the optimized condition for the ethylene glycol oleate production, with conversions above 99%, was at 70 °C, 600 rpm, substrates molar ratio of 1:2, 1 wt% of NS 88011 in 32 H of reaction. Kinetic tests were also carried out with different amounts of enzyme, and it showed that by decreasing the amount of the enzyme, the conversion also decreases. The lipase reuse showed good conversions until the second cycle of use, after which it had a progressive reduction reaching 83% in the fourth cycle of use. The scale-up (ninefold increase) showed promising results, with conversion above 99%, achieving conversions similar to small-scale reactions. Therefore, this work proposed an environmentally safe route to produce an emollient ester using a low-cost biocatalyst in a solvent-free system.

Contact haptens in emollients marketed in two European countries (Poland and Spain)

INTRODUCTION AND OBJECTIVES: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common skin disease among pediatric patients, which affects up to 20% of children worldwide. Characterized by pruritus and eczema, it is also associated with improper skin barrier function and allergen sensitization. Here, we aimed to assess the presence of haptens in emollients marketed in two European countries: in Poland and Spain, as, firstly, these products are considered to be AD's basic therapy, and, secondly, frequent application of potent sensitizers on atopic skin may result in contact dermatitis. MATERIALS AND METHODS: We systematically searched for moisturizers explicitly described as "Atopic skin care" products in the most frequently visited online pharmacies in Poland and Spain. Subsequently, we created a database of all products and compared their composition with 139 contact haptens listed in the European Baseline Series (EBS), Fragrance and Cosmetic Series. RESULTS: As of December 2018, our list comprised 159 and 111 emollients available on the Polish and Spanish markets, respectively. There were no ingredients listed in 28 (17.5%) products in Poland and 24 (21.6%) in Spain. Only 23 (17.5%) and 13 (14.8%) products were hapten free. The pattern of most common haptens was similar in both countries, including phenoxyethanol, tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate, undefined parfum in Poland and tocopherol, phenoxyethanol, tocopheryl acetate and undefined parfum in Spain. CONCLUSIONS: This study shows that a vast majority of products taken into consideration contain at least one potential contact hapten. These findings indicate a need for patient education about potentially allergenic ingredients and stronger cooperation between academia and cosmetic manufacturers

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Scented lotions may cause scaring and premature fading of tattoos.

Although tattoo artists provide tattoo aftercare instructions to their clients, recommendations are often not cost-effective or supported by evidence. A 22-year-old man developed a pruritic red rash over his healing tattoo one week after receiving the tattoo. Although multiple queries were negative, the patient did note use of a scented lotion before the eruption. We determined that allergic contact dermatitis from the scented lotion caused scarring and premature fading of the new tattoo. Tattoo artists should recommend avoidance of scented lotions and instruct clients to care for their new tattoo like a wound in their aftercare instructions.

Emollient structure and chemical functionality effects on the biomechanical function of human stratum corneum.

OBJECTIVE: Cosmetic emollients are widely used in skincare formulations due to their ability to 'soften' the skin and modulate formulation spreadability. Though emollients are commonly used, little is known about their effects on the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC), which play a critical role in consumer perception of formulation efficacy. Accordingly, our objective was to provide new insights with a study involving fourteen cosmetic emollient molecules with widely varying structures, molecular weights, SC diffusivities, topological polar surface areas (TPSAs), viscosities and chemical functionalities. METHODS: Mechanical stress in the SC was measured in vitro using a substrate curvature measurement technique. Stress development due to SC drying was measured before and after topical treatment with cosmetic emollients. Emollient diffusivity and alterations to lipid content in SC after treatment were measured via ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. The maximum penetration volume of emollient in SC was characterized to elucidate mechanisms underlying emollient effects on stress. RESULTS: The application of all cosmetic emollients caused a reduction in SC mechanical stress under dehydrating conditions, and a linear correlation was discovered between emollient penetration volume and the degree of stress reduction. These molecules also induced increases in stress equilibration rate, signalling changes to SC transport kinetics. Stress equilibration rate increases linearly correlated with decreasing intensity of the νCH2 band, indicating a previously unknown interaction between cosmetic emollients and SC lipids. Stress and penetration volume results were rationalized in terms of a multi-parameter model including emollient molecular weight, diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity. CONCLUSION: We provide a new rational basis for understanding the effects of cosmetic emollient choice on biomechanical properties affecting SC barrier function and consumer perception. We demonstrate for the first time that emollients very likely reduce SC mechanical stress through their ability to take up volume when penetrating the SC, and how molecular weight, SC diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity are predictive of this ability. As cosmetic formulations continue to evolve to meet the needs of customers, emollient molecules can be selected that not only contribute to formulation texture and/or spreadability but that also leverage this novel connection between emollient penetration and SC biomechanics.

OBJECTIF: Les émollients cosmétiques sont largement utilisés dans les formulations de soins de la peau en raison de leur capacité à «adoucir¼ la peau et à moduler la capacité d'étalement de la formulation. Bien que les émollients soient couramment utilisés, on en sait peu sur leurs effets sur les propriétés de barrière biomécanique de la couche cornée humaine (SC), qui jouent un rôle essentiel dans la perception par les consommateurs de l'efficacité de la formulation. En conséquence, notre objectif était de fournir de nouvelles perspectives avec une étude impliquant quatorze molécules émollientes cosmétiques avec des structures, des poids moléculaires, des diffusivités SC, des surfaces polaires topologiques (TPSA), des viscosités et des fonctionnalités chimiques très variables. MÉTHODES: La contrainte mécanique dans le SC a été mesurée in vitro en utilisant une technique de mesure de la courbure du substrat. Le développement du stress dû au séchage SC a été mesuré avant et après un traitement topique avec des émollients cosmétiques. La diffusivité émolliente et les altérations de la teneur en lipides dans la SC après le traitement ont été mesurées par spectroscopie ATR-FTIR. Le volume de pénétration maximal de l'émollient dans SC a été caractérisé pour élucider les mécanismes sous-jacents aux effets émollients sur le stress. RÉSULTATS: L'application de tous les émollients cosmétiques a entraîné une réduction de la contrainte mécanique SC dans des conditions de déshydratation, et une corrélation linéaire a été découverte entre le volume de pénétration de l'émollient et le degré de réduction de la contrainte. Ces molécules ont également induit des augmentations du taux d'équilibrage des contraintes, signalant des changements dans la cinétique de transport SC. Le taux d'équilibrage des contraintes augmente linéairement en corrélation avec la diminution de l'intensité de la bande νCH2 , indiquant une interaction jusque-là inconnue entre les émollients cosmétiques et les lipides SC. Les résultats du stress et du volume de pénétration ont été rationalisés en termes d'un modèle multi-paramètres comprenant le poids moléculaire émollient, la diffusivité, le TPSA et la viscosité. CONCLUSION: Nous fournissons une nouvelle base rationnelle pour comprendre les effets du choix des émollients cosmétiques sur les propriétés biomécaniques affectant la fonction de barrière SC et la perception du consommateur. Nous démontrons pour la première fois que les émollients réduisent très probablement la contrainte mécanique SC grâce à leur capacité à prendre du volume lors de la pénétration du SC, et comment le poids moléculaire, la diffusivité SC, le TPSA et la viscosité sont prédictifs de cette capacité. Alors que les formulations cosmétiques continuent d'évoluer pour répondre aux besoins des clients, des molécules émollientes peuvent être sélectionnées qui contribuent non seulement à la texture et / ou à l'étalement de la formulation, mais qui exploitent également cette nouvelle connexion entre la pénétration des émollients et la biomécanique SC.

A Consensus About the Importance of Ceramide Containing Skincare for Normal and Sensitive Skin Conditions in Neonates and Infants.

Background: Neonates and infants are susceptible to skin barrier disruption as their skin anatomically and functionally is still developing. The process of skin acidification plays a vital role in barrier maturation and the activation of enzymes involved in the extracellular processing of stratum corneum lipids. The current consensus paper explores challenges, and current treatment approaches in neonatal and infant normal and sensitive skin and the role of ceramides containing moisturizers. Methods: For this purpose, an expert panel of pediatric dermatologists and dermatologists discussed information from systematic literature searches, coupled with expert opinion and experience of the panel, to adopt eight statements. The consensus process consisted of a modified Delphi technique. Results: During the first years after birth, the neonatal and infant skin is more permeable to topical agents and, therefore, requires particular caution with topical skincare regimens. Mildly acidic or pH-neutral cleansers have benefits for neonates and infants. Skincare for neonates and infants should be safe, effective, and fragrance free as well as sensitizing agent-free. Additionally, the skincare should be pleasant to use, containing ingredients that benefit the lipid and water content of the SC, such as those products containing ceramides. Conclusion: Taking into consideration the maturation process of neonatal and infant skin, the application of moisturizers and cleansers containing barrier lipids may help maintain the protective skin barrier and soothe with long-term moisturizing benefits. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(8) 769-776: doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.5252 THIS ARTICLE HAD BEEN MADE AVAILABLE FREE OF CHARGE. PLEASE SCROLL DOWN TO ACCESS THE FULL TEXT OF THIS ARTICLE WITHOUT LOGGING IN. NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. PLEASE CONTACT THE PUBLISHER WITH ANY QUESTIONS.

Efficacy of Nonprescription Moisturizers for Atopic Dermatitis: An Updated Review of Clinical Evidence.

Twice-daily moisturization is recommended by international guidelines as the bedrock of the management of atopic dermatitis (AD). Moisturizers should be selected based on proven clinical effectiveness in improving the skin barrier and improving the symptoms of AD. We searched the PubMed database for clinical trials assessing daily moisturization for the treatment of AD published between 2006 and 2019. Studies had to assess the efficacy of commercially available moisturizers using objective measures of corneometry, transepidermal water loss, or incidence of flare as endpoints, and treatments had to be currently available to patients. Clinical studies showed that moisturization (typically twice daily) significantly improved the skin barrier in adults and children with AD. Longer-term flare studies showed that daily moisturization reduced the incidence of flares and extended the time between flares. Proactive moisturization of infants at high risk of developing AD may reduce its manifestation. Therapeutic moisturizers for AD are specifically formulated with ingredients that target symptoms of AD, such as itch, inflammation, or compromised skin barrier. The US FDA requires that any moisturizer available in the USA and claiming to treat AD must contain colloidal oatmeal. Healthcare providers can maximize compliance and outcomes by educating patients on the benefits of liberally applying a therapeutic moisturizer twice daily to support the skin barrier and help reduce the incidence of flares. Specific recommendations should be for clinically tested moisturizers evaluated using objective, validated skin assessments.

Contact haptens in emollients marketed in two European countries (Poland and Spain).

INTRODUCTION AND OBJECTIVES: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common skin disease among pediatric patients, which affects up to 20% of children worldwide. Characterized by pruritus and eczema, it is also associated with improper skin barrier function and allergen sensitization. Here, we aimed to assess the presence of haptens in emollients marketed in two European countries: in Poland and Spain, as, firstly, these products are considered to be AD's basic therapy, and, secondly, frequent application of potent sensitizers on atopic skin may result in contact dermatitis. MATERIALS AND METHODS: We systematically searched for moisturizers explicitly described as "Atopic skin care" products in the most frequently visited online pharmacies in Poland and Spain. Subsequently, we created a database of all products and compared their composition with 139 contact haptens listed in the European Baseline Series (EBS), Fragrance and Cosmetic Series. RESULTS: As of December 2018, our list comprised 159 and 111 emollients available on the Polish and Spanish markets, respectively. There were no ingredients listed in 28 (17.5%) products in Poland and 24 (21.6%) in Spain. Only 23 (17.5%) and 13 (14.8%) products were hapten free. The pattern of most common haptens was similar in both countries, including phenoxyethanol, tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate, undefined parfum in Poland and tocopherol, phenoxyethanol, tocopheryl acetate and undefined parfum in Spain. CONCLUSIONS: This study shows that a vast majority of products taken into consideration contain at least one potential contact hapten. These findings indicate a need for patient education about potentially allergenic ingredients and stronger cooperation between academia and cosmetic manufacturers.

Complementary approaches to understand the spreading behavior on skin of O/W emulsions containing different emollientss.

The human skin is a very complex living tissue, in a permanent evolution and self-renewing by constant lipids secretion. The characterization of this biological material is a major concern in dermo-cosmetic and pharmaceutics fields. Understanding the skin interaction with its environment, during application of skincare products, is consequently of genuine interest to better control the different phenomena occurring. In sensory language, the application of products on the skin is defined as the spreading behavior. Five O/W emulsions were formulated with different ratios of two emollients (isohexadecane and stearic acid). Complementary instrumental and sensory analysis of spreading behavior was carried out in vivo on human skin as well as in vitro on non-biological skin surface in order to investigate the impact of two emollients, and their mixtures in the spreadability and penetration of O/W emulsions. A first screening was made to link the physico-chemical properties (polarity, physical state and ratio) of emollients with the spreading behavior on human skin. Then, interesting parameters (the plateau value, its length and the increase of the friction value) from the tribological study on skin were considered to allow deepening the product/skin interactions after application of different emulsions and over time. In the last part of the study, an original method, using non-biological surfaces mimicking the human skin, was successfully tested with very good reproducibility of the spreading behavior. This original tool is of great interest to study the efficacy of new formulas on skin, but also for fundamental research and help performing standardized measurements as well as solving the logistic and safety problems of in vivo studies.

Roller compaction: Infrared thermography as a PAT for monitoring powder flow from feeding to compaction zone.

Roller compaction is a continuous dry granulation process, in which powder is compressed by two counter-rotating rollers. During this process, the powder feeding to the compaction zone has a significant effect on product quality. This work investigates the flow of powder from the feeding zone to the compaction zone using online infrared thermography as Process Analytical Technology (PAT) which is achieved via a specially built cheek plate (side-sealing). The powder undergoes increasing stress from the rollers when it is approaching the minimum gap of the compaction zone, which can be indirectly monitored by measuring the powder temperature. The online monitoring of the powder flow during the roller compaction helps locate the nip region and identify the effect of different roller forces on the temperature of the feeding powder. The results show that the nip region can be identified by analysing the temperature profiles from the feeding to the compaction zone. The increase of roller force results in an increasing slope of the powder temperature profile. In addition, offline X-ray CT measurement results show the increase of density along the feeding to the compaction direction, which is compared with Johanson theory under different roller forces in the roller compaction process.

Effect of emollients on UV filter absorbance and sunscreen efficiency.

The idea of increasing the performance of sunscreens without adding more UV-filters is very attractive. Early studies reported an influence of solvents on the absorbing properties of UV-absorbers which was shown to be connected to the solvent polarity. However, the polarity differed a lot between tested solvents and most were unsuitable UV-filter solubilizers. The aim of the present study was to focus exclusively on emollients pertinent for sunscreens and investigate their impact on the performance of UV-filter combinations. The UV absorbance of Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate was measured in suncare relevant emollients comprising C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dibutyl Adipate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-caprylate, Isopropyl Myristate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate. The wavelength of maximum absorbance (λmax) and specific extinction at λmax (E1,1 (λmax)) were assessed for each UV-filter - emollient system. The performance of market relevant UV-filter combinations based on the studied UV-filters was simulated for each emollient with a computational method using the absorbance values measured for each UV-filter - emollient system. The difference in polarity of emollients led to a 2-3 nm bathochromic shift and a variation of the E1,1 (λmax) ranging from 4 to 20% for tested UV-filters. The emollient type showed nearly no influence on the sun protection factor (SPF) of market relevant UV-filter combinations probably due to a different influence an emollient shows on the UVB filters resulting in cancelling of the corresponding effect. Conversely, for all UV-filter combinations the UVA protection decreased with a decrease in the emollient polarity. Whilst the SPF was not impacted by standardly used cosmetic oils, the results advocate to use polar emollients to optimize the UVA protection. This is of advantage since polar emollients better dissolve crystalline UV-filters. From tested emollients, Dibutyl Adipate performed the best for both SPF and PPD factors.

Dermatology Part 2: Ichthyoses and Psoriasis.

Acute and chronic inflammatory skin diseases are frequent in childhood and may be hereditary or acquired. In this context, ichthyosis is rather a symptom than a defined disease as scaling is accompanying a number of disorders and is mostly consequence of a disrupted skin barrier. Ichthyosis is the basic pathogenic trait of atopic dermatitis but on the other side describes a group of rare hereditary diseases. These may only affect the skin or comprise several internal symptoms as well. Psoriasis is another scaling inflammatory skin disease with classical sharply demarcated erythematosquamous plaques and with a distinct immunogenetic background. It comprises several clinical subsets, some of which are characteristic for children and demanding in both diagnostics and therapy. Comorbid diseases point towards a systemic inflammatory response and require ample, often systemic treatment. Both ichthyosis and psoriasis may be topically treated including emollients with and without humectants as well as active agents like corticosteroids, vitamin D derivatives, and calcineurin inhibitors. In moderate to severe diseases, systemic treatment should be applied using methotrexate, ciclosporin, fumarates, or biologics. Their use should be critically discussed yet if necessary and indicated be applied to avoid chronic physical and psychological damage to the affected children.

Development and economic evaluation of an eco-friendly biocatalytic synthesis of emollient esters.

During the past decades the understanding and prospects of enzyme-catalysed reactions have been massively widened and there are a number of implemented large-scale enzymatic processes mainly based in the use of commercial biocatalysts. As it might happen that the same process can be successfully carried out by different commercial lipases, the election of the biocatalyst must rely on productivity and economic considerations. This work presents productiveness and direct operation cost evaluation as a key tool for the selection between two commercial lipase catalysts, the versatile but expensive Novozym® 435 and a much more economical option, Lipozyme® TL IM, in the synthesis of spermaceti, a mixture of emollient esters with cosmetic applications. Proving that Novozym® 435 leads to minimum savings of 10% with respect to the cheapest immobilized derivative, biocatalyst cost does not appear to be the major contribution to the economics of the processes under study, due to their great capacity to be recovered and reused. At laboratory scale, the biggest economic investment is caused by substrates, which can be massively reduced at industrial scale by using bulk reagents. In such case, energy cost may be the major contribution to the process economy. This work proposes an optimized process ready to be scaled-up in order to accurately determine the energetic requirements of the possible industrial enzymatic synthesis.